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Page 1 of 2 Dr Sarah Brewer explains how the condition of your hair and nails can reflect your general state of health and offers tips for looking after them.
Your hair and nails are a good indicator of your general health and are often the first parts of the body to show signs of nutritional deficiency or ill health.
Although hair and nails are dead structures, the hair follicles and nail beds that make them are very much alive and are among the most active areas of the body. Nails grow at a rate of around 5mm per month, while the combined growth of hair on your body totals 100 inches a day – that is an incredible seven miles a year.
In addition, you lose 80–100 scalp hairs per day, which you have to replace; and to do this, cells making hair and nail proteins need a constant supply of nutrients. Because they are non-essential structures, however, precious nutrients are diverted away from hair and nails in times of deficiency, and this can lead to thinning hair that is dull and lacklustre and looks limp and lifeless, and to nails that are ridged or which flake and split easily.
Looking after your hair and nails Endeavour to eat a balanced diet containing as many unrefined, wholefoods as possible. Wholegrains, fruit, vegetables and seeds are a rich source of the vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids that provide nourishment for hair roots and nail-beds.
Try not to eat erratically or to skip meals (especially breakfast) otherwise the supply of nutrients to non-essential tissues, such as hair follicles, will be reduced. It is also important to drink plenty of water to improve the flow of nutrients to the hair follicles and nail-beds.
Hair has a high content of the tough, fibrous protein, keratin, which is made from amino-acid building blocks obtained from your diet. Aim to eat a source of protein, such as poultry, fish, eggs, nuts or beans, with every meal. Vegetarians are more prone to thinning hair because some important amino acids (lysine, for example) and micronutrients such as vitamin B12 and iron, may be lacking from their diet.
Reduce your salt intake. Excess salt reduces hair follicle function and research shows that reducing salt intake can reduce hair loss and thinning by as much as 60 per cent.
After the age of 25, the diameter of individual hairs naturally starts to decrease, especially in women. Although this often goes unnoticed, it can change the texture and body of your hair. By the age of 40, most people have finer hair with less body. At the same time, more follicles stay in their resting phase so less hair grows and the rate of growth decreases, resulting in progressive thinning. You can minimise this effect by massaging your scalp regularly with your fingers, at least once a week, and preferably every day to stimulate circulation and increase the flow of nutrients to hair follicles. In the same way, massage a nourishing hand cream into your nail cuticles every day.
Avoid excess stress, as stress hormones constrict blood supply to the scalp and hair follicles, thus reducing their supply of nutrients. This can lead to generalised hair thinning – or even patchy hair loss.
Avoid prolonged immersion of your nails in water – use rubber gloves when washing up, and apply a conditioning hand cream or oil to your hands and nails regularly.
After shampooing, always use a conditioner – this will detangle and smooth the hair shafts. If your hair feels limp or loses body after conditioning, you are either using the wrong product for your type of hair or you are not rinsing it off thoroughly. Wrap your head in a towel, turban-style after washing, and pat against your hair to absorb excess moisture; but don’t rub vigorously as this can stretch and break, or even pull out, hairs. Starting at the ends, gently remove any tangles with a wide-toothed comb before drying.
Hold the hair dryer about 15cm away from your head. Dry the back and sides first before moving towards the crown and front. Gradually reduce the speed and temperature settings as your hair dries. Towards the end of blow-drying, bend over and gently brush your hair from the roots to the tips in an upside-down position. This will give extra bounce, stimulate your scalp circulation, and increase the volume and body of your hair. Stop using a hair dryer while your hair is still slightly damp and allow it to finish drying naturally.
If you use heated rollers, choose those that are steam-producing and thermostatically controlled. Never wear rollers while asleep because this can stretch and break hair and may lead to patchy hair loss and thinning.
Similarly, don’t sleep in pins or clips, which may damage your scalp as well as your hair. Only use thick, fabric-coated bands in your hair and, if your hair is brittle, add a little conditioner to the band to help protect the hair.
Try to avoid chemicals coming into contact with your scalp and follicles. If you are having a perm or colour treatment, ensure they are applied only to the hair shafts. A plastic cap can help to protect the hair follicles when bleach is applied.
Semi-permanent colour is kinder to hair than permanent colour. Talk to your hairdresser about the types of dyes they use and select those they are confident are the most gentle and natural. Avoid manmade dyes whenever possible.
Most health food shops stock supplements that are designed to help promote healthy hair and nails – these usually contain selected vitamins, minerals and a herbal source of silica, such as horsetail or bamboo. And taking a 1,000mg per day dose of evening primrose oil can noticeably improve the quality of your hair and nails within three months.
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