| Island of contrasts |
|
|
| Written by Penny Kitchen, 2008 | |
|
Page 2 of 2 Coastal delightsMallorca's northwestern coastline, bordered by the Tramuntana, is mostly cliffs and rocky inlets, many only accessible by boat. This is where serious walkers come in search of dramatic views, olive trees, spring wildflowers and occasional superb hostelries so off the beaten track you wonder how anyone finds them.From the built-up suburbs of Andratx the Ma10 road (or Ma11 from Palma) takes you up the coast. It is well worth hiring a car at your hotel to make this trip, which can take in Deià and Valldemossa en route. For many people, especially families, Mallorca's beaches are what it's all about. To escape the hordes in the south take the new road to Puerta Pollença where a far more sedate and low-rise resort on a lovely mountain-backed bay awaits you. From the quiet residential area, a Pine Walk around the bay takes you towards the town, with its cafes and inviting seafront restaurants. Pollença, further inland, is a pretty town that was formerly the haunt of artists. As the Lonely Planet guide puts it: "Everyone from Winston Churchill to Agatha Christie has at some point hung about at Pollença." Even today it has a large foreign population. All around the eastern coast you will find fishing villages or 'puertas' with its 'sister' village or town by the same name further inland. The fishermen would return to their homes inland as a protection against the pirates that roamed the Mediterranean centuries ago. Today the fishing boats have largely been replaced by pedalos, pleasure craft and swanky yachts, and former fishing villages such as Cala D'Or on the eastern side of the island are now sprawling resorts. From the wildly beautiful northern promontory of Cap de Formentor to the southern tip, this coast is dotted with sandy coves - 'calas'. Here you will find the wonderful beaches and turquoise water for which the island is famous. However, if you are intent on sampling Mallorquin authenticity along with the sun, sea and sand, it's a good idea to find a peaceful rural hotel inland within cycling distance of the beach. Our British guide on this trip had made over 200 visits to Mallorca and clearly loved the island, wishing only that he had been able to buy one of those Palma fishermen's houses in the 1970s when they were going for a song. The island's successful attempt to 'reposition itself' higher upmarket means few can afford to buy a second home here now. But meanwhile, the rest of us can enjoy Mallorca as visitors - there is something for everyone. Further informationPenny kitchen stayed at three hotels in the Reis de Mallorca group (www.reisdemallorca.com): Illa d'Or in Puerto Pollenca (www.hotelillador.com), Hotel Cala d'Or (www.hotelcalador.es) and Melia Cala d'Or (www.solmelia.com) both in the resort of Cala d'Or.Tour operator Classic Collection features these hotels in its Mallorca brochure. For reservations visit www.classic-collection.co.uk or call 0800 008 7288 |
