These are special: not just prettily coiled, but so buttery and flavourful. Since they can be filling, slice them only 2.5cm (1in) thick.

For the dough

3 tsp dried yeast

40g (1½oz) sugar

100ml (4 fl oz) warmed milk

550g (1lb 4oz) flour

1½ tsp salt

½ tsp cinnamon

½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg grated

zest of 1 lemon 2

25g (8oz) butter, at room temperature

2 eggs, lightly beaten

For the filling

85g (3oz) butter

85g (3oz) currants

85g (3oz) brown sugar

6 glacé cherries (optional)

2 tbsp caster sugar

3 tbsp milk

In a small bowl, mix the yeast with 1 teaspoon of sugar and warmed milk. Let it sit for 5 minutes until frothy.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer, mix the remaining sugar with the flour, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and lemon zest. Rub in the butter until mixture looks like crumbs. Make a well in the middle and pour in the frothy yeast and the eggs.

Mix and knead thoroughly, by hand or in an electric mixer, until you have a dough that’s smooth, soft and stiffish. Cover with clingfilm and set in a draught-free spot for about 2 hours or until it has doubled in bulk. Knock it down and cut in half.

To make the filling, cut the butter into pea-size bits; then mix together currants and sugar. If you include cherries, cut each one into 6. With a floured rolling pin and your hands, flatten one piece of dough into a rectangle about 14cm x 35cm (9in x 14in). Dot half the butter bits over the pastry, then sprinkle with half the currant and sugar mixture and half the cherry bits. Fold in thirds, as if making puff pastry.

Roll it out as thinly as possible in a rectangle, as before. Starting from the short side closest to you, roll it up tightly. With the seam side down cut it into 2.5cm (1in) slices and place 2.5cm (1in) apart on a prepared baking sheet. Repeat with other portion of dough (using a second baking tray if necessary).

Cover, and allow to swell until buns are almost touching and look puffy – about 45 minutes. Preheat the oven to 220ºC (425ºF), and bake for 14–17 minutes, until golden and touching. As soon as you take them out of the oven, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of caster sugar. Boil together 1 tablespoon of sugar and the milk until it bubbles fiercely, then brush over the top of buns.

Best eaten on the day of baking, preferably slightly warm. Makes about 18