A world of British heritage Print E-mail
Written by Nandita Dutta, 2008   
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There is simply too much to see and do in Greenwich to cram it all into one day, as Nandita Dutta recently discovered  If you want art treasures and grand architecture, are interested in British scientific achievements and history (especially naval and maritime history), royal patronage - and a right-royal view of London, then head for the south-east of the capital where Maritime Greenwich, a World Heritage Site, has it all. In fact, there's so much to see and do in Greenwich that a day isn't really long enough - and that's without the Olympics!

Greenwich is the birthplace of Henry VIII and his daughters Mary and Elizabeth, the location of the world's Prime Meridian and the site of the oldest Royal Park in London, offering panoramic views of the city.

Admire the spectacular interior of the Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College, where Admiral Lord Nelson lay in state prior to his funeral, as well as grand examples of British architecture, from the Baroque splendour of the College itself to the contemporary landmark of the O2.

There are markets and a theatre, plus restaurants, bars and a variety of shops... in fact, the problem with Maritime Greenwich is what to see first.

Celebrating art and science

UNESCO inscribed Maritime Greenwich as a World Heritage Site in 1997 on the basis that: "The public and private buildings and the Royal Park at Greenwich form an exceptional ensemble that bears witness to human artistic and scientific endeavor of the highest quality, to European architecture at an important stage of its evolution, and to the creation of a landscape that integrates nature and culture in a harmonious whole."

Old Royal Naval College is a feast for the eyes

Designed by Sir Christopher Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor, and built between 1696 and 1751, these Baroque buildings were originally the Royal Hospital for Seamen, providing a home for retired and injured sailors.

The Hospital became the Royal Naval College in 1873 until 1998, when the buildings became home to the University of Greenwich and Trinity College of Music.

The star attraction of the ORNC is The Painted Hall, described as 'the finest dining hall in Europe' and decorated with allegorical Baroque scenes by English artist James Thornhill that took over 19 years to complete.

The dazzling Lower Hall ceiling illustrates the triumph of Peace and Liberty over Tyranny, and pays tribute to King William and Queen Mary - founders of the Hospital - and British maritime power. In the Upper Hall, Queen Anne looks out at the continents of the world; the west wall shows her Hanoverian successors, George I and his family. Trompe l'oeil painting on the columns and windowsills certainly does 'fool the eye' with its 3D illusion.
 
Another feast for the eyes is provided by the ornately decorated Chapel of St Peter and St Paul. Badly damaged by fire, the original building was rebuilt under the supervision of James 'Athenian' Stuart, in his favoured 'Greek revival' style.

It reopened in 1789 and remains a complete and unaltered neoclassical period piece. The Chapel is still a place of worship, with a Sunday 11am service, and its excellent acoustics make it a popular choice for concerts and choral events.

The Painted Hall and the Chapel are open daily 10am-5pm; entry is free.

The Queen's House - a palace in classic style

Commissioned by Anne of Denmark, wife of James I, the Queen's House was England's first Classical building. It was designed by Inigo Jones following his architectural studies in Italy, and reflects Renaissance ideals of mathematical, classical proportion and harmony.

This is best exemplified in the Great Hall: a 12m3 (40ft3) space that rises through the centre of the house. The Great Hall's 1635 marble floor, geometrically patterned in black and white, and its painted woodwork are two original features that can still be appreciated today.

Also surviving in original form is the ironwork of the graceful Tulip Stairs - the first geometric self-supporting spiral stairs in Britain.

The stairs are named for the flowers in the balustrade, but it is possible that the flowers are in fact fleurs-de-lis, the emblem of the Bourbon family of which Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I, was a member.

The Queen's House is now used to display examples of the National Maritime Museum's art collection, and is open daily 10am-5.00pm; entry is free.

The unmissable National Maritime Museum

From traditional model ships to interactive displays, the history of Britain at sea is brought to life on the three floors of the National Maritime Museum. Attention-grabbing exhibits include a flashing lighthouse optic, a 'wave-making' machine and Prince Frederick's barge - a fairytale vision of ornate gold and wood built for the son of King George II.

The Passengers gallery shows the history of cruise ships, offering views inside replica cabins of the 1920s, and includes a small collection of items from the Titanic.

A display of restored stained glass from the Baltic Exchange splashes luminous colour into the Museum, showing the Virtues of Hope, Fortitude, Justice, Truth and Faith.

The Baltic Exchange building was severely damaged in an IRA bomb explosion in 1992. Glass conservators have been at work over the past 10 years, remaking the missing pieces of its stained glass windows to recreate the heroic images.

And of course there's Britain's great naval hero Lord Admiral Horatio Nelson, whose career is explored in the Nelson's Navy gallery. Over 250 items shed light on life in the Royal Navy in which he served, including the naval uniform - complete with bullet hole - that Nelson was wearing when he was fatally wounded at Cape Trafalgar.

The National Maritime Museum is open daily 10am-5.00pm; entry is free.

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