A capital Christmas Print E-mail
 

National Gallery

Masterpieces seldom seen outside Spain are highlights of this winter’s Velazquez exhibition, while Cezanne in England features works from the gallery’s own collection. See the picture recently voted “Britain’s favourite” – Turner’s Fighting Temeraire. This masterpiece of colour shows the nostalgic and inevitable process of the old giving way to new – a veteran Trafalgar warship being towed by a steam tug to the breaker’s yard.

Cross the Thames by the (formerly wobbly) Millennium Bridge to see what’s causing controversy at Tate Modern, pausing to look back at the superb view of St Paul’s, then follow the river down stream to...

The Globe and Barbican

Find time for one of the guided tours of this ‘theatre in the round’, open to the heavens as it was in Will’s day. Some of the Bard’s greatest plays were performed at this spot, where it is easy to imagine yourself one of the clamorous groundlings at a first night à la Shakespeare in Love. If you can’t let the festive season go by without a panto, catch Dick Whittington and his Cat at the Barbican, 29 November – 20 January.

London Dungeon

From the Globe it’s only a stroll to where Madame Tussaud’s, still going strong in Baker Street, has a serious rival for horrors – Southwark’s London Dungeon. Housed in the old prison of the Clink, this is a spooky place for those with strong nerves and hearts. Here the “darkest chapters of Britain’s past” are brought to life with the aid of special effects, atmospheric sets and live actors.

Borough Market

With the departure of Covent Garden to Vauxhall there is only one fruit and veg market left, Borough Market beneath the tracks of London Bridge station, which has been operating since 1756. Wholesale only during the week, it is open to all from Friday noon and all day Saturday. Stallholders come from all over, and there is a particularly wide range of food, from venison sausages to clover honey and organic mincemeat at Christmas time, as well as a number of continental specialities.

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Ice-skating at the Tower of London
Ice-skating

Frost Fairs and skating on the Thames are long gone, not due to global warming but to the faster flowing current caused by embanking the river. In 1876 the Glaciarium opened in Chelsea as the first artificial ice rink. Today, new technology has made open air rinks practicable in our milder winters, so an increasing number of temporary sites open during the Christmas season, several in historic settings. Music, hot chocolate, mulled wine, roast chestnuts and mince pies add to the atmosphere. No skating experience is necessary, but remember to wrap up warmly.

In 1869 Greenwich Hospital for the Relief of Seamen became the Royal Naval College and is now home to the University of Greenwich and Trinity College of Music. This winter will feature an ice rink bordered by the Thames and flanked by Hawksmoor’s great towers. Lit by flaming torches, skaters can also glide around the 18th-century courtyard of Somerset House near Waterloo Bridge.

With a Café Bar, festive lights and Christmas Fair there’s plenty to enjoy along with the ice rink in the gardens of the Natural History Museum, or take a trip out to Hampton Court Palace where you can marvel at the icy reflection of its majestic entrance.

Go down to Kew at Christmastime to skate in the Botanical Gardens, and if it turns to snow seek refuge in the tropical palm house. Cut a fine figure at Windsor’s Alexandra Park or the Tower
of London ice rink, against the backdrop of castles or board the Docklands Light Railway to one of the largest rinks beneath the towering blocks of Canary Wharf.

New Year’s Day Parade

The parade starts at noon on 1 January in Parliament Square and ends two miles away at Green Park. It is very much a capital show, with floats expected from each of the 33 boroughs and the Cities of London and Westminster, as well as international participants. Already over £750,000 has been raised for London-based charities. With 10,000 performers and an expected half a million spectators it offers a splendid welcome to the New Year.

Anna Milford is an author, City of London Guide, gardener and member of Crockham Hill WI, West Kent.

Further information

Most museums, galleries and venues have websites where you can check admission prices (many are free). Check before leaving home since programmes and opening hours may vary.
  • National Gallery – tel: 020 7839 3321    
  • National Portrait Gallery – tel: 020 7306 0055
  • Guildhall – tel: 020 7332 1456    
  • Guildhall Art Gallery – tel: 020 7332 3700
  • Bank of England Museum – tel: 020 7601 5491     
  • Imperial War Museum – tel: 020 7416 5320
  • Royal Institution – tel: 020 7222 7000    
  • Borough Market – tel: 020 7407 1002
  • Shakespeare’s Globe – tel: 020 7902 1500        
  • London Eye – tel: 0870 500 0600
  • Library & Museum of Freemasonry – tel: 020 7395 9257
  • www.visitlondon.com – comprehensive website from the Mayor’s office that includes “Young London” and “Kids London”
  • www.viewlondon.co.uk and www.londontown.com both give extensive coverage as does the weekly Time Out, in print and on the Web.